Dinosaur
National Monument –
Harpers Corner Road
Our
last stop on this trip is a two-parter.
The second part will talk about seeing the dinosaur quarry, some
petroglyphs, and an old homestead by quite an interesting woman. This first part will cover our explorations
down Harpers Corner Road, and a bit of a side trip down Echo Park Road. Let’s get started!!
As
we began our drive, the views were spectacular from either side of the
Jeep. On the left (upper image) was Plug
Hat Butte and on the right (lower image) was the view looking out over the
landscape. How did Plug Hat get its
name? An early traveler thought this
formation looked like a derby hat with the red color being the color of the
band on the hat.
The
next view along the canyon road was the Escalante Overlook. The broad valley is the Uinta Basin and is
home to plants and animals from the Great Basin, Colorado Plateau and Rocky
Mountains. The view is so expansive, it’s hard to believe this is in back-road
country, and if you don’t head down this road, you’ll have no idea it exists.
The
next great view was what’s called Canyon Overlook. Although I shot the image on the right with
my wide-angle lens as wide as I could, I couldn’t get the full view in the
frame, so I took another image to capture the rock formations off to the left
of the view (image on the left).
The
next view is of Vivas Cake Hill Overlook We were told in the driving guide we
had that it wouldn’t be unusual to see cattle along the road, and we certainly
did (see image below)! The road shown in
the image is Echo Park Road, which we’ll be heading down in just a little bit. The
area we were looking out over had quite the history. Back in the “olden days” of cowboys and
cattle rustling, this canyon was part of what is known as the Outlaw
Trail. It was part of a backcountry
route that ran from Montana into New Mexico and was used by many outlaws. The most infamous of them was the Wild Bunch,
led by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.
Two local sisters, the Bassett befriended the Wild Bunch, and even
celebrated Thanksgiving with them one year. Josie Bassett ended up marrying and
moving to the base of Split Mountain (more about her in the next blog post),
but Ann became the girlfriend of Butch Cassidy at age 15, and remained involved
with him and the Wild Bunch for many years.
She became known as the “Queen of the Cattle Rustlers”.
The
next view we had was from Island Park Overlook.
In April, 1883, Henry and May Ruple homesteaded in this area, and
established a cattle ranch. The family
ran cattle from this area to Wild Mountain, about 10 miles away. In 1915, the ranch switched over to sheep
ranching when their son, Hod, took over the ranch. The Ruples sold most of the ranch in 1945,
but still maintain a portion of it, outside of the Monument.
We
now approached Echo Park Overlook, and what a grad view it was! Although you can’t see it in either of these
images, the Yampa River runs through this valley, and in 1950, there was some
talk of damming the river, which would have caused all of what you see here and
everything I talk about in the rest of this post to be under water. Obviously, the opposition to the dam carried
the day, and we still have this wonderful area to explore! The winding road you see in the image on the
right is where we’re headed next!
Here
we are at the bottom of the canyon traveling down Echo Park Road. The road is actually in really good condition,
and it quite picturesque. What’s next to
see?
Here
are some views as we drove through the narrower part of the road. The bottom image is of a butte off on our
right, and not right on top of us.
However, the upper image is of the rock formations as they sort of hung
over the Jeep. I took this image while
looking up out of the open roof of the Jeep.
Jack
Chew and his wife settled in this area at Pool Creek in 1910, along with their
12 children and their cattle. They build
the small one room cabin which became home to them and their children. I believe the image in the upper left is this
cabin. It was one of the first ranches
in what is now Dinosaur National Monument and was home to three generations of
Chews. With hard work and the resources
provided by Nature, the Chews lived here for more than half a century. The
lower right image is another type of structure in what seems to be the Chew
Ranch. Mary Chew, and her sons, Rial and
Douglas, managed the ranch during the 1920s.
Rial, who eventually became the sole owner, increased the ranch to more
than 2,250 acres. In the 1930s, Rail
also begins raising sheep in addition to the cattle. During the 1940s, Rial and
his family begin to spend winters in Vernal, UT, so his children can attend
school there. In 1966, Rial sells 1,900 acres to the National Park Service that
are now within Dinosaur National Monument.
Some
of the rock formations were very interesting.
This formation, for example, has what appear to be clefts in the
rocks. As we looked at them, Jeff
surmised that as the rain flowed from the top of the mesa/butte, it ran in the
same patterns, and those patterns eventually became these clefts. They don’t seem to go all the way through the
rock –
at least not yet!
The
next place we stopped was at a place where there were some interesting
petroglyphs up high on a rock wall. As you can see in the image in the upper
left, the path was rather narrow, and the rock wall was very high. The petroglyphs were up very high, much
higher than we could reach or even see very well. After a while, our eyes got a bit adjusted to
how the petroglyphs appeared, and I was able to get some good images. When the Fremont people made these
petroglyphs, the ground was actually about 35 feet higher than it is today, and
so the petroglyphs were in easy reach.
However, with the water flowing all these years, the floor of the canyon
is much lower, and the petroglyphs are truly out of reach! The two shapes we could make out were dots
and chips. The dots were made by
drilling many small holes into the sandstone.
The chips were made by actually chipping away at the sandstone. When you look closely at some of the
petroglyphs, it looks like they got very accurate in both drilling and
chipping. This is the only place in
Dinosaur National Monument where you can see these types of petroglyphs.
At
the end of Echo Park Road, we did finally run into the Yampa River. Although not shown in this image, very close
by was a rafting outing getting ready to hit the water! We chose to take a few minutes to simply
enjoy the view before heading back the way we came.
Enjoy!